A painful beauty: The history of foot binding in ancient China

The origins of foot binding are unclear, but it is thought to have begun during the Tang dynasty (618-907).

At that time, dancers and courtesans would bind their feet to make them look smaller and more delicate, and the practice gradually spread to other social classes.

By the Song dynasty (960-1279), foot binding had become a widespread practice, especially among upper-class women, and was seen as a mark of beauty and social status.

The process of foot binding was incredibly painful and often began when girls were as young as 4-6 years old.

It involved tightly wrapping a young girl's feet in cloth strips, folding the toes under the sole, and applying pressure to break the arch of the foot.

This process continued for years, with the bindings being tightened every day, resulting in a permanent deformity of the foot.

The ideal foot size for a woman was around 3 inches long, known as the 'golden lotus'.

Foot binding was initially confined to the wealthy and aristocratic classes, as it generally required the family to forgo the labor of their daughters in order to allow them to undergo the painful process of foot binding and the subsequent need to avoid strenuous physical activities.

As such, it started primarily a marker of social status rather than a universal practice.

The practice was often seen as a means of making a girl more marriageable, as small feet were considered a sign of beauty and refinement in Chinese society.

However, during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912) foot binding spread across all social classes, with estimates suggesting up to 40-50% of women had bound feet, with the percentage rising to nearly 100% among upper-class Han women. 

Some women from the lower classes were still required to perform domestic work even with bound feet.

Despite the physical toll it took on women, foot binding persisted for centuries. It was seen as a sign of femininity and refinement, and women were often seen as more delicate and graceful.

Women with bound feet were considered more desirable in marriage. Many families saw it as a way to secure advantageous marriages, as men often preferred wives with small feet.

The practice reinforced traditional gender roles. Women with bound feet were physically dependent, reinforcing the Confucian ideal of a woman’s place being in the home. It also symbolized obedience and submission, traits that were highly valued in a patriarchal society.

Foot binding also became a way for families to demonstrate their wealth and social status, as only families who could afford to have their daughters stay indoors and not work in the fields could afford to bind their feet.

In the early 20th century, foot binding finally began to decline in China as the country modernized and Western ideas of women's rights began to influence Chinese society.

Reformers such as Kang Youwei and Liang Qichao led anti-foot binding campaigns in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, arguing that the practice weakened China by physically incapacitating half of its population.

The practice was officially banned in 1912 by the newly established Republic of China, but enforcement was weak, and it continued in some rural areas for several more decades.

Today, foot binding is seen as a relic of a bygone era, however some of the last known generation of women with bound feet are still alive today and experiencing its long-term consequences.